ANCIENT & PROUD

Jelena, Johanne & Sophie at Restaurant the Mill, by the entrance to the ancient town of Nessebar (in the background)

The Bulgarian Black Sea coast can trace settlements back at least 3000 years. The towns here take an enormous pride in their ancient history, and one of them, our neighbouring town of Nessebar - has been on UNESCO's World Heritage List since 1983. Nessebar is situated on an island and is easily visible from the sea and the hills that surround Sunny Beach.

Julie on the bridge that leads to Nessebar

The narrow streets of Nessebar are cobblestoned, and high-heeled shoes are no match for this surface. If there's one place I've got lost as an adult (my sense of direction is outstanding by the way), it's in this town. And still - after five years and several visits, I'm never quite sure of directions here and usually stick to well known routes. I've set my heart on a proper exploration tour at one point, but it'll have to be in broad daylight and with company! It will be an exciting adventure off the beaten tourist track.

It must be a fact that Nessebar is the best known and most visited Bulgarian tourist attraction. In summer it's overcrowded, and the restaurant bouncers, the souvenir sellers and the icon painters are all overly eager to have your custom. And the prices are way above every other similar establishment in Bulgaria, even in other typical tourist traps. Still - I love Nessebar, and I always need to pay it a visit. Having frequented it now for several years, I know where to go for a decent meal and where to shop. I came across an icon painter who is really good, and I bought the above painting from her. These are a lot more expensive than the mass produced ones you buy from the souvenir shop. She sells icons from her gallery, and she's always painting - you can watch her at work. She copies old Bulgarian icons, and I think that everyone who spends time in Bulgaria should own one!

Pobiti Kamani - the Petrified Forest

Above are photos from Pobiti Kamani, the Petrified Forest near Varna. It's fascinating, with weird and sometimes obscene rock formations! I still have a huge lot to learn about Bulgaria's culture and cultural landscape. Just a few hundred metres behind the busy seaside towns on Sunny Beach, the real Bulgarian cultural landscape rolls away into the green hills, with vineyards, farms, old castles and orthodox churches. And an exceptional musical tradition! It's commonly said that every Bulgarian can sing or play an instrument, and that if you happen to come across a celebration of some sort you'll be invited to join.

One of Norway's greatest jazz singers, Radka Toneff, was half Bulgarian. Sadly she died at only thirty, but her legacy lives on. Here's her version of "The Moon's a Harsh Mistress", the best ever.

A couple of years ago I was at the check-in queue at Bourgas Airport, Bulgaria - going back to Oslo. Right behind me was one of Norway's most talented rock artists - Mikhael Paskalev - he too half Bulgarian. I was totally starstruck! Born in 1987, he probably doesn't regard Big Mamas as dribbling groupies. I really wanted to tell him I love his music, but I didn't want to ruin his illusions of being a young hipster.

When I got home I read in the paper that he'd just been to Bulgaria to record this video - "Jive Babe". This in fact shows a good deal of the cultural landscape of rural Bulgaria - not far from us! Starstruck again!

I'm always a bit disappointed that I can't bring my gun into the shops in Bulgaria